One tranquil night in Takengon, as I sipped spicy ginger tea with local coffee farmers, I was invited by a spirited man named Aulia to visit his home the next day. The following morning, his identity as a dedicated coffee farmer became clear as I arrived at his home, marked by a wrought iron gate adorned with brass coffee beans. Inside, Aulia proudly showed me his meticulous fermentation tanks and pre-fermentation coffee cherries, reflecting his commitment to excellence. Over coffee and homemade cheese biscuits prepared by his wife, Aulia shared his passion for specialty coffee, honoring his late parents’ legacy. Since 2017, his expertise in anaerobic fermentation had become his signature, evidenced by a spotless greenhouse and precision in drying facilities. During a cupping session, his coffees lived up to my expectations, showcasing the artistry and science behind his craft.
Ateng can be traced back to a single lake: Aceh Tengah (AH-chay ten-GAH). Here, a dwarf tree was discovered that burst with an abundance of cherries. The farmers of the region shared and planted these cherries, leading to a new wave of trees. Fast forward to today, the Ateng variety remains elusive in most parts of the world, yet thrives beautifully across Indonesia. The remarkable size of its beans, comparable to the esteemed Pacamara variety, is simply awe-inspiring.
