Indonesian Specialty Coffee: From Skepticism to Appreciation
February 16, 2024
Our journey into Indonesian coffee has been extensive and multifaceted, yielding a spectrum of impressions. Early encounters with Sumatran coffees left us underwhelmed, puzzled by the prevalence of grassy and earthy notes attributed to the traditional Wet Hulling process. This method, widely adopted in Indonesia, appeared to prioritize expedience over terroir expression, steering our focus towards the accessible coffees of Latin America and Africa.
However, Indonesia's coffee scene eventually pierced through our preconceptions. In 2014, a Natural processed coffee from the Wahana estate showcased the untapped potential of Indonesia's terroir without the constraints of Wet Hulling. Our intrigue deepened at the 2018 Specialty Coffee Expo in Seattle, where the unexpected quality of Indonesian coffees at a "Best of Indonesia" auction prompted us to explore further, securing exceptional washed Javan and Balinese coffees.
A pivotal moment occurred with the hiring of an individual well-versed in Sumatran coffee culture. Through them, we connected with Voster Hutamabarat, a passionate farmer in Northern Sumatra committed to producing washed coffees. Our partnership, initiated just before the global pandemic, unearthed the richness and potential of Sumatran coffee, marked by distinctive flavors of nutmeg, ginger, and carob, devoid of the typical Sumatran nuances.
A recent expedition to Indonesia deepened our understanding. Visits to farms like Kebun Galla in Sumatra revealed Voster's innovative approach, integrating goat farming with coffee cultivation to enhance sustainability. Moreover, encounters with farmers like Aulia Kahfi highlighted a shared passion for innovative fermentation practices, shaping our perception of Indonesian coffee's potential.
In Java, our exploration led us to the Tambak Ruyung cooperative, a government-led initiative promoting sustainable livelihoods through coffee cultivation. Despite bureaucratic hurdles, the exceptional quality of their coffees underscored the value of our partnership, fueling our anticipation to share their offerings.
This journey transformed our perception of Indonesian coffee, shifting from skepticism to appreciation. It illuminated the rich diversity of Indonesian terroir and the farmers' eagerness to explore traditional and innovative fermentation practices, urging us to recognize Indonesia's emergence as a powerhouse within specialty coffee.
